Nicholas Daley FW23 "Roots to Rebel" Is an Ode to Post-War Britain

Leicester-born designer Nicholas Daley has just revealed his Fall/Winter 2023 collection, which sees the designer cross British borders to highlight the Black and British diasporic experience in post-war Britain.

Dubbed “Roots to Rebel,” Daley embraces the Afro-Caribbean community in his hometurf and explores the impact of subcultural movements outside of London. By looking back at 1970s Coventry, the collection is birthed from the social unrest experienced across the country during troubling times and reflects the upbeat Jamaican spirit that influenced the U.K. fashion scene.

Similarly, British punk and reggae groups dominated the musical landscape of the ’70s and contributed to the quintessential sound that defined the era. From The Specials to Selecter, Nicholas Daley’s FW23 collection embodies the attire rocked by British rudeboys, from their basement blues forefathers to contemporary jazz enthusiasts.

The seasonal garments are instructed by a two-toned narrative informed by Birmingham-based poet Benjamin Zephaniah and English singer Pauline Black, who pushed the boundaries of political upheaval with their creative specialties.

Daley partnered with Scottish manufacturer Locharron to create hefty mohair tartan vests and kilts that recall the designer’s Scots ancestry, while color-blocked workwear jackets pay tribute to working-class pioneers. Military-inspired motifs enhance Smock Parkas and Cargo Pants made from waterproof Italian fabrics, working alongside loose trousers decorated with smudged checkered paint. Furthermore, brawny “THE REGGAE CLUB” graphics adorn merino knitwear next to diamond-shaped graphic button-downs and two-piece sets.

Staple ND tracksuits, patchwork windbreakers, coats, and stripped outerwear complete the collection alongside an array of baker-boy hats and a collaboration with G.H. Bass & Co. on two Weejun Larson loafers.

Take a closer look at Nicholas Daley’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.

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