Can I start by saying there is nothing wrong with armpit hair? If you want to proudly rock bushy underarms à la Miley Cyrus, Paris Jackson and Lourdes Leon (following in the footsteps of mum Madonna), then you go for it. I, however, have spent many years on a mission to rid myself of hairs, painful in-grown bumps and the horrible stinging sensation of applying deodorant to freshly razored armpits.
As a pale brunette, shaving never seemed to give the result I was after, with dark follicles always still visible beneath my skin surface. It won’t surprise you to hear that as soon as I became a beauty journalist, I had my arm straight up to find a more permanent solution.
My first attempt ended in tears – literally. The salon laser was so painful, I had to abort the mission and agree to come back later with armpits covered in cling film and numbing cream.
Over the years, I’ve endured several long courses of professional hair removal, of varying degrees of discomfort, which had thinned out the hair a bit but never to the point where I could abandon my trusty Venus triple-bar.
So when I was invited to try Braun’s at-home Silk-Expert IPL device a while back, it sounded too good to be true. Not only did it promise permanent hair reduction, it claimed to deliver it with barely a wince. So what’s the lowdown?
How does IPL work?
The basic technology of intense pulsed light (IPL) is pretty simple. It works by targeting the pigment in hair, which switches off the hair follicles. It only works on hair in the growth phase. For that reason, you’ll need to repeat treat every week for three months, so you can get to hairs that would have been in their resting mode during previous sessions.
After 12 weeks or so, you should in theory have zapped the majority of hairs, and then only need maintenance treatments, as and when, to pick off any new and unwelcome arrivals.
How quickly will I see results?
You won’t notice hair falling out en-masse, just a gradual growth slow-down over time. Some devices claim you’ll start to see results after 3-4 sessions. Since IPL should be carried out on shaved skin, you won’t need to endure any hairy phase between treatments.
Is it safe?
Home IPL is very safety focused, reassures consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. Braun’s Silk-Expert adjusts its energy levels using a smart skin sensor, and will only work on suitable skin tones.
Where can I use it?
Devices vary, so check individual instructions first, but it’s possible to use IPL on legs, arms, under-arms, bikini line and face. Don’t expect an at-home Brazilian though, as the genital area is too sensitive. You’ll need to go to the salon for that.
Is IPL ideal for everyone?
Unfortunately not. IPL works by detecting a contrast between the pigments in your skin and your hair, and the bigger the difference, the better it works. That’s great news if you’re a fair-skinned dark brunette like me, but it’s not ideal if you have darker skin or your hair is pale.
Many IPL devices – including Braun’s – aren’t suitable for the darkest skin tones, and also can’t detect grey, paler blonde or red hair. Both Braun Silk-Expert and its rival, Philips Lumea IPL 9000, adjust their power level to different skin tones, using sensors that automatically deliver less energy to darker skin. If skin is too dark, the device won’t fire.
Even IPL devices which do promise to work on all skin and hair tones such as Silk'n Infinity Smooth, concede that they give best results on light skin with dark hair. The further you are from this optimal combination, the more I’d hesitate before shelling out.
Is IPL expensive?
Although it's cheaper than a course of salon hair removal, home IPL devices aren't cheap. Braun’s IPL has an RRP of £600, while Philips Lumea is £459, although there are usually lots of offers including Amazon and Boots deals so always shop around.
Braun also offers a 90-day money back guarantee and Philips now has a Try & Buy programme for Lumea for £38.50 a month, where you can choose between paying off the cost in instalments, or cancelling and returning within 12 months. Do check the T&Cs first.
Tried & tested verdict
Lynne says: “I’m not going to lie, I was expecting this to hurt. I started out, very nervously, on my legs, braced for what brands call ‘a twanging elastic band sensation’ and I call ‘Ow, ow, ow, STOP!’ However, the only shock was that I felt – nothing. That gave me the confidence to point the device at my more sensitive regions and take a deep breath.
The technique itself is easy. You either squeeze the button to deliver individual pulses of energy (handy on smaller areas), or hold it down while you glide and zap. When you press the device on your skin, the sensor lights up pre-zap to show how much energy you’re about to deliver to your skin. The more lights you get, the stronger (ie more effective) the energy.
Thankfully, this didn’t translate to more pain in my experience. Even when my device was fully lit up, the most I felt was an occasional and totally bearable flash of heat.
It’s quick to use as well. Underarms and bikini line take only a couple of minutes, while lower legs can be done in under five.
It helps that I’m an ideal candidate for IPL, but the results for me have been outstanding. I religiously stuck to the schedule for 12 weeks, and by the end my underarms were remarkably clear and I was feeling – sorry for the overshare – bikini ready.
Best of all, the results have really lasted. IPL promises permanent reduction rather than total removal, because you never know when new hairs are going to pop up. However, I’ve found the hairs have stayed away far better than they ever did after extremely pricey professional treatments.
It’s certainly effective enough to have made me exceedingly lazy. I can (and do) now leave my underarms unshaven for months at a time, and be quite taken aback to suddenly spot a rogue new sprouter in need of zapping. Ew.
My leg hairs, which are lighter in colour, didn’t respond as well so I must admit I didn’t commit fully after the initial three months. However, if I’m lazy these days and leave my legs unshaven I can really see how much that area has thinned. I have now pledged to finish the job and hope to have perfectly smooth shins for summer 2023.
I’ll never be able to bin the razor entirely, as the Silk-Expert has no impact on downy thigh hairs or the pale blonde piggy hairs on my knees. I won’t claim that it’s ideal for everyone, but for me it’s been one of the most brilliant beauty devices I’ve ever tested.”
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